Metro Rings Paper Pattern: Sew Curved Rings Without Puckers
By Sew Kind of Wonderful | Published: 2026-11-03
Category: How-to Guides
Learn how to sew the Metro Rings quilt pattern with curved piecing that stays smooth. Follow strip-set steps and checkpoints to avoid puckers and ripples.
Quick answer
Sew Metro Rings curved seams by piecing straight strip sets first, then align and pin each curve at the midpoint and ends before stitching slowly with a shorter stitch length. Press seams open and check for flatness before adding the next ring.
Why strip sets make curved rings easier
The Metro Rings pattern builds rings from straight strip sets rather than individual templates. That means most of your sewing is straight seams, and the curved piecing is limited to joining those prepared units. This approach reduces the number of curved seams and helps you keep the ring shape consistent.
Because the strip sets are straight pieced, you can chain piece them and press in batches. The curves come later, so you can focus on accurate strip width and seam allowance first.
When curves still pucker: fabric and pinning trade-offs
Even with strip sets, puckers can appear if you stretch the bias edges while pinning or sew too fast. The curve on Metro Rings is gentle, but the background fabric and print fabric may behave differently. Prewashing is optional, but if you mix prewashed and unwashed fabrics, shrinkage later can distort the rings.
Use fine pins and place them perpendicular to the seam line. If you pin parallel to the edge, the fabric can shift. More pins help on the first ring, but too many can distort the curve; aim for pins at the midpoint, quarter points, and ends.
Step-by-step: sewing Metro Rings curves without puckers
- Prepare accurate strip sets: Sew your 2 1/2-inch strips together in the combinations shown in the pattern, using a consistent scant 1/4-inch seam. Press seams open or to one side as directed, and check that each strip set is exactly the width specified before cutting. Measure a strip set after pressing; if it is off by more than 1/8 inch, adjust your seam allowance before sewing more.
- Mark curve midpoints: Fold each curved piece in half and finger-press the midpoint, or use a removable pen to mark it. Do the same for the piece it joins. These marks let you align the curve without guessing. Skip this step and the curve will likely shift, causing ripples on one side.
- Pin the curve correctly: With right sides together, match the midpoints and pin perpendicular to the seam line. Then pin the ends, and add pins between if needed. Keep the fabric relaxed; do not stretch it to fit. If the edges do not meet without stretching, your pieces may be cut inaccurately—recheck before sewing.
- Sew slowly with a shorter stitch: Set your stitch length to about 2.0–2.2 mm and sew the curve with the fabric slightly eased, not pulled. Keep the needle down and lift the presser foot to adjust the fabric as you go around the curve. Sewing too fast is the most common cause of puckers; slow down even if it takes longer.
- Press and check flatness: Press the seam flat first to set the stitches, then press open or to the side as the pattern directs. Lay the unit on a flat surface and check for ripples. If it puckers, unpick and resew before adding more rings. A small pucker will grow when you join rings; fix it now rather than later.
Pattern facts that affect your sewing
- Metro Rings (Paper): The Metro Rings pattern uses 1 jelly roll or 35 strips of 2 1/2-inch width, plus 5 yards of background fabric. Knowing the strip size and background yardage helps you cut accurately and avoid running short mid-project.
Metro Rings (Paper)
