Curvy Bow Tie Paper Pattern: Fix Bow Tie Block Piecing Issues
By Sew Kind of Wonderful | Published: 2026-11-04
Category: Product Reviews
Diagnose wavy seams, bulky centers, and blocks that won't lie flat in the Curvy Bow Tie quilt. Match each symptom to a cause and a fix before you rip stitches.
Quick answer
Most Curvy Bow Tie piecing problems trace back to three things: a seam allowance that drifts on the curve, clipping the concave piece too little or too much, and pressing the center intersection open instead of fanning it. Fix those first; only re-cut fabric if the block is still off after a test seam.
Why the curve changes the usual bow tie advice
A traditional bow tie block is all straight seams, so most troubleshooting guides focus on matching points. The Curvy Bow Tie adds a curved seam between the bow and the background, which means the block can look correct at the machine but pull out of shape after pressing. Check the curve's seam allowance before you check the corners.
The pattern calls for the Wonder Curve Ruler, and the curve is cut and sewn on that radius. If you substitute a different curve template, the seam line shifts and the block will not square up to the pattern's throw size.
When to stop adjusting and re-cut
If a block measures more than about 1/4 inch off after two attempts, stop pressing and re-cutting the same piece. Repeated ripping stretches the bias on the curved edge, and no amount of pressing brings it back. Cut a fresh piece and sew a test seam on scrap first.
If the fabric is a loose weave or a stretchy blend, the curve will distort more easily. Choose a stable quilting cotton for your first Curvy Bow Tie, or accept a slightly smaller throw and trim carefully.
Symptom-to-fix diagnosis
- Wavy or puckered curved seam: Likely cause: the concave piece was not clipped enough, or the seam allowance widened on the curve. Clip the concave seam allowance at about 1/4-inch intervals almost to the stitching, then resew with a scant 1/4-inch seam and a shorter stitch length. Stop if the fabric edge starts to fray past the stitching; re-cut instead. Test the seam on scrap before resewing the block.
- Bulky, lumpy center intersection: Likely cause: seam allowances pressed in conflicting directions. Press the center intersection open on the back, fan the allowances, and trim the hidden layers to about 1/8 inch. Do not trim the visible seam allowance below 1/4 inch or the block will come apart. Fan and trim before pressing the block flat.
- Block measures small or large after pressing: Likely cause: seam allowance drift on the curve or stretching during pressing. Measure the block before pressing, then press with an up-and-down motion rather than sliding the iron. If it is still more than 1/4 inch off, re-cut the curved piece and resew. Measure before pressing so you know whether the seam or the iron caused the change.
- Curve looks flat or has a visible kink: Likely cause: the curve was clipped too deeply or the seam was sewn with a long stitch length. Use a shorter stitch length (around 2.0 mm) and clip only to just before the stitching. If the fabric is already cut through, re-cut the piece. Clip after sewing, not before.
- Block still off after two fixes: Stop adjusting and re-cut the curved piece from fresh fabric. Repeated ripping stretches the bias, and further pressing will not restore the shape. If the problem repeats across several blocks, check that your ruler matches the Wonder Curve Ruler radius before cutting more fabric. Two attempts is the limit; re-cut after that.
Pattern facts that affect troubleshooting
- Curvy Bow Tie (Paper): The Curvy Bow Tie paper pattern makes a throw-size quilt of 49 by 56 inches and uses the Wonder Curve Ruler for its curved seams. Because the curve is ruler-specific, a substitute template changes the seam line and makes every other fix harder to judge.
Curvy Bow Tie (Paper)
